Introduction: The “Green Aurora” belongs to Hong Kong’s summer nights
If Victoria Harbour is golden busy during the day, then the sea surface of Sai Kung after night is a fluorescent green psychedelic vision.
Every year from May to September, when night falls, you will find that the sea is lit up with green light, like a mirage. It was not an aurora or an alien spaceship, but a summer ritual unique to Hong Kong – “Chok cuttlefish” (cuttlefish fishing).
For the older generation of Hong Kong people, cuttlefish fishing is a livelihood and a cheap entertainment; But for today’s young people and the middle class who pay attention to the quality of life, this traditional event has evolved into a fashionable “Night Squid Party”. Saying goodbye to crowded, damp kaido wooden boats, we now prefer to rent a well-equipped Western-style yacht, blow the sea breeze, sip champagne, experience the thrill of harvesting under the green floodlights, and then enjoy the freshest “Boat-to-Table” sashimi feast.
Chapter 1: Why “Chok”? A game of sight and touch
“Chok” is Cantonese, which means “pulling up and down hard”. This vividly describes the technique of cuttlefish fishing.
Unlike fishing, which requires patience for the movement of the buoy, cuttlefish fishing is an active hunt. Cuttlefish are phototaxial, and boatmen will turn on high-power green or white floodlights on both sides of the boat, and the strong light will shine directly into the sea, attracting plankton and attracting preying cuttlefish.
When you see a black shadow in the shape of a shuttle under the sea, or the swing of the tentacles, the adrenaline rush is indescribable. The tackle in your hand is usually an “octopus hook” without barbs and does not require bait. All you need to do is put the hook into the water and rhythmically lift it up and down (Chok) to mimic the swimming of small shrimp. When the feel suddenly sank, it was the cuttlefish holding the hook, and the line must be reeled at a constant speed, not too fast or too slow.
The most exciting moment is the moment when the cuttlefish comes out of the water. If you don’t want to be sprayed with ink, be sure to point the cuttlefish at the surface of the sea or your annoying friend (laughs). The chaos, screaming and laughter of the atmosphere is something that no land party can replicate.
Chapter 2: Experience upgrade from “individual group group” to “private charter”
In the early years, if you wanted to go cuttlefish fishing, you would mostly buy a “loose ticket” at Sai Kung Pier and squeeze into a large wooden boat full of fifty or sixty people. The experience is often worse: crowded, threads tangled, toilets are messy, and food is simply boiled.
But in recent years, as the yacht charter market has matured, “private charter night fishing” has become mainstream. Especially for a group of 15-20 people, the cost of chartering a medium-sized yacht is actually not much more expensive than buying a loose ticket, but the experience is a world of difference.
1. Specialization in Boat Facilities Not all yachts are suitable for cuttlefish. A professional cuttlefish boat needs to be equipped with a high-lumen professional fish collection light (which directly determines the catch), as well as a spacious and non-slip deck space. When planning these types of events, I use Holimood.com.cn for filtering. In its “Evening Charter” section, I can directly check the tags “Cuttlefish Group” or “Equipped with Cuttlefish Lights”. The system will filter out those business boats that are only suitable for sightseeing but do not have fishing functions, and the rest are “combat-oriented” yachts. I’ve seen some boat details pages, and they even indicate that they are equipped with a “ship-wide wrap-around floor scrubber pipe” to flush the ink on the deck at any time, which is very important for girls who love cleanliness.
2. Refinement of Catering Another benefit of private charters is the catering upgrade. Instead of simple boiled cuttlefish, you can order a Thai buffet or Western cold cuts. Imagine waiting for the cuttlefish to take the bait, holding a chilled Craft Beer in hand, eating charcoal-grilled pork neck with lazy jazz in the background, which is what modern urbanites want for a night out.
Chapter 3: Fishing and cooking – the highest courtesy given by the ocean
The most fascinating thing about cuttlefish fishing is the “expiration date”.
Cuttlefish is an ingredient that dies immediately after leaving the water, and the umami is lost very quickly. No matter how fresh the cuttlefish you eat at seafood restaurants in the city, it cannot be compared to the one you just caught on the boat.
The cuttlefish that came out of the water was crystal clear all over, and the pigment cells on its body were still flickering and changing color. At this time, the boatman will become a chef. There are two most authentic ways to eat it:
- Original Squid Ink: Use the ink that comes with the cuttlefish, add onions and garlic and stir-fry. The kind of black noodles, but the entrance is extremely sweet, and everyone’s mouths are black after eating, looking at each other and smiling, and the joy is endless.
- Sashimi or boiled: For sea areas where you are confident in the water quality (such as off the coast of Saigon), you can directly slice it to make sashimi, which has a crisp and chewy texture; Or simply blanched and dipped in soy sauce and Wasabi, which is the original taste of the sea.
When booking with Holimood, I usually look for “fish-and-cook” included in the boat service. Some high-end yachts even offer a special teppanyaki service, where freshly baited squid is placed on the iron plate and sizzled, and the aroma can instantly make the whole boat gather.
Chapter 4: Choices other than night tours of Victoria Harbour
Although the night view of Victoria Harbour is beautiful, the light pollution is too heavy and not suitable for cuttlefish fishing. The best fishing spots are usually in Ngau Mei Hai, Big Wave Bay, or Tseung Kwan O in Sai Kung.
I once planned a very successful “double combination” itinerary:
- 18:00 – 19:30: The boat departs from Sai Kung Pier, while it is not completely dark, we go to the vicinity of Half Moon Bay to watch the sunset, everyone drinks champagne on the deck, and takes pictures.
- 19:30 – 21:30: The captain steers the boat to anchor in the inner bay, where the wind and waves are light, and turns on the green fish light. Start the 2-hour “Chok Cuttlefish” contest to see who catches the most.
- 21:30 – 22:30: Enjoying the loot, the boat slowly returns, everyone returns in a tipsy with the sea breeze on the way back.
Chapter 5: Practical Tips for Newbies
- Clothing Advice: Never wear white or light-colored clothing! When cuttlefish is frightened, it sprays ink, which is a natural dye that cannot be washed off. It is recommended to wear dark, quick-drying clothing.
- Seasickness medicine: Waves at night can sometimes make people more likely to get seasick due to unclear vision. It is recommended to take seasickness medicine half an hour before boarding.
- Seasonal selection: While available from May to September, June and July are typically the times when cuttlefish are most dense and uniform in size.
- Mentality management: Fishing for cuttlefish to watch the sky and eat, sometimes the current is not right, and the harvest may be small. At this time, a well-prepared party (food, music, wine) is very important – if you catch it, it will be a surprise, and if you can’t, it will be a happy party at sea.
Conclusion: Unleashing the Wild on the Edge of the City
In fast-paced Hong Kong, we are used to looking at our phones on the subway and queuing in restaurants. And “Chok Cuttlefish” offers a return to the original joy. In the dark sea, staring at the green light, the fishing line in his hand connected to the unknown deep sea.
This experience is both urban and luxurious, traditional and modern. Next time, if someone asks you what you can do on a summer night in Hong Kong, don’t just take him to Lan Kwai Fong for a drink, take him out to sea, and chase the green aurora that belongs to Hong Kong’s summer night.
